Method of and mechanism for knitting runproof or run-resistant full fashioned hosiery



METHOD OF AND MEbHANISM FOR KNITTING RUNPHOOF 0R RUN RESISTANT FULL FASHIONED HOSIERY Filed Aug. 4, 1932 14 Sheets-Sheet l Oct. 30,1934. E E CARLSON 1,978,412

' Invenior: EZZQZUOWEII/E CaZ'Zson,

E. EACARLSON 1,973,412 METHOD OF AND MECHANISM FOR KNITTING RUNPROOF Y 0R HUN RESISTANT FULL FASHIONED HOSIERY j File 2 14 d Aug. 4, 195 Sheets-Sheet 2 .4 j 4 ug Ifi/ven/Zow: E'ikworih/E Oat-Z0 om Oct. 30, 1934. E. E. CARLSON 1,973,412

. METHOD OF AND MECHANISM FOR KNITTING RUNPROOF I OR RUN RESISTANT FULL FASHIONED HOSIERY Filed Aug. 4, 1932' 14 Sheets-Sheet 3 2 l0 9 .41 a f m 11111! 1 Oct. 30, 1934. E. E. CARLSON 1,973,412-

METHOD OF AND MECHANISM FUR KNITTING RUNPHOOF 0R RUN RESISTANT FULL FASHIQNED HOSIERY Filed Aug. 4, 1952 14 Sheets-Sheet 4 I nveni/or: Elhworihl'z L'arZso E E. CARLSON METHOD OF AND MECHANISM FOR KNITTING RUNPROOF 0R RUN RESISTANT FULL FASHIONED HQSIERY Filed Aug. 4, 1932 14 Sheets-Shet 5 Oct. 30, 1934.

E. E. CARLSON ETHOD OF AND MECHANISM FOR KNITTING RUNPROOF OR RUN RESISTANT FULL FASHIONED HOSIERY Filed Aug. 4, 1932 14 Sheets-Sheet 6 Invenior .E'Ziisworifl CWZSOW y Oct. 30, 1934. E. E. CARLSON 1,978,412

METHOD OF AND MECHANISM FOR KNITTING RUNPROOF OR RUN RESISTANT FULL FASHIONED HOSIERY Filed Aug. 4,: 1932 14 Sheets-Sheet 7 r Inve roioi': E'Jlswo EmrZsan Oct. 30, 1934. r E E ARLSQN 1,978,412 METHOD OF AND MECHA SM FOR KNITTING RUNPROOF I OH RUN RESISTANT FULL FASHIONED HOSIERY Filed Aug. Sheets-Sheet 8 Oct. 30, 1934. E, CARL-SON 1,978,412

METHOD OF AND MECHANISM FOR KNITTING RUNPROOF 0R RUN RESISTANT FULL FASHIONED HOSIERY Filed Aug. 4, 1932 14 Sheets-Sheet 9 Oct. 30, 1934. CARLSON 1,978,412

METHOD OF AND MECHANISM FOR KNITTING RUNPROOF OR RUN RESISTANT FULL FASHIONED HOSIERY Filed Aug. 4, 1932 14 SheetsSheet 10 III'IUOIIIOOOOOO J 0000.00

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E. E. CARLSO 1, 78,412

METHOD OF AND MECHANISM FOR K T N RUNPROOF OR RUN RESISTANT F FASH E OSIERY FiledAu 195 14 Sheets-Sheet ll Oct. 30,: 1934.

Invenio 2":

E'Zis wori/k/E Liz/risen a wh zr m Oct. 30, 1934. E CARLSQN 1,978,412

METHOD OF AND MECHANISM FOR KNITTING RUNPROOF -'0R RUN RESISTANT FULL FASHIONED HOSIERY Filed Aug. 4, 1932 14 Sheets-Sheet l2 E. CARLSON 1,978,412 METHOD 0F AND MECHANISM FOR KNITTING RUNPROOF 0R RUN RESISTANT FULL FASHIONED HOSIERY 1 Filed. Aug. 4, 1932 14 Sheets-Sheet l5 Oct. 30, 1934. E. CARLSON 1,978,412

. METHOD OF AND MECHANISM FOR KNITTING RUNPROOF 0R RUN RESISTANT FULL FASHIONED HOSIERY Filed Aug. 4, 1932 l4 Sheets-Sheet l4 Patented Oct. 30, 1934 UNITED S'TA METHOD OF AND mzcnamsm Foa KNIT- TING aunrnoor on RUN-RESISTANT FULL FASHIONED nosmay Van Raalte Company, New York, N. Y., a

poration of New York Application August 4, 1932, Serial No.

23Clalms. (01. 66-135) "This invention relates to methods of and mech-' anism for knitting run-proof or run-resistant knitted fabric.

This application is a continuation in part of divisible subject matter contained in my original application Serial No. 541,245, filed June 1, 1931, and is flied in substitution for my co-pending application Serial No. 613,244, filed May 24, 1932, for Mechanism for and method of knitting runproof or run-resistant full fashioned hosiery an resulting fabric. 1

In accordance with the preferred embodiment of the invention, the fabric is a plain fabric made upon a full fashioned hosiery machine.

In order that the principle of the invention may be readily understood, I have disclosed in the accompanying drawings mechanism for making a full fashioned stocking of the character described in my said original application Serial No. 541,245,

' and I have also fully illustrated the said stockins.

In said drawings: I Fig. 1 is a plan view of a blank of an English type of full fashioned stocking having my invention applied thereto or incorporated therein,

parts being broken away;

Fig. 2 is a side elevation of the complete stocking made in accordance with my invention, but with an intermediate part broken away;

Fig. 3 is ,an enlarged plan view of the fabric viewed from the outside thereof;

Fig. 4 is a similar view, but from the inside or inner face of the fabric;

Fig. 5 is a front elevation of parts only of a full fashioned knitting machine (but representing the parts only diagrammatically), to show how the necessary movements are imparted to the guide bar by which the additional, secondary or warp threads are introduced respectively into each needle wale thereof;

Fig. 6 is a left hand elevation shown in Fig. 5:

Fig. 7 is a vertical transverse line 'l----'! of Fig. 5; V v i- 1 Fig. 8 is a front elevation of the right hand end portion of thewell-known Reading machin having my invention applied thereto;

Fig. 9 is an enlarged detail mainly in vertical section of a portion of the means for imparting 5:) longitudinal movement to the rod carrying the additional or warp threads to be incorporated into each needle wale'of the fabric;

Fig. 10 is an end elevation of the mechanism shown in Fig. 8;

Fig. 11 is an enlarged of the structure tion on the detail mainly in side elethe means shown in Fig. 10 for feeding and ten Fig. l'Lis a rear elevation of a part of the vation of means for feeding and tensioning the main knitting thread;

Fig. 12 is a plan view of a part of the means for throwing the additional or warp thread flngers successively out of action to effect fashion- 0 ing of the fabric;

Fig- 13 is a front elevation of'the mechanism showninFig.12;,

Fig. 14 is a plan view upon a larger'scale than Fig. 12 of the additionalpr warp thread fingers for one section of the machine, and representing also apart of their operating means;

Fig. 15 ;is a front elevation ofthe mechanism" shown irr Fig. 14; v

Fig. 16 is'an end elevation with parts in vertical section-of the mechanism shown inFig. 15;

mechanism shown in Figs. 15 and 16;

' Fig. 18 is an enlarged view in vertical section and partly inelevation, representing needles,

, sinkers, knocking over bits, main knitting thread carrier and additional or warp thread guides in their relative positions:

Fig. 19 is a plan view on an enlarged detail of sioning the additional or warp threads;

Fig. 20 isa detail in vertical section taken about mid-lengthof the machine, of a part of the means for taking care of those additional or warp threads that pertain to those needle wales that are discontinued when the fabric or blank is fashioned or narrowed;

Fig. 21*is a detail in elevation of means for operating the shaft shown in Fig. 20 that rotates the spool upon' which the additional or warp threads whose needle wales have been diseontinued, are wound up, to be disposedof as waste;

in Fig. 23; I

Fig. 22 is a side elevation of the mechanism shown inFlg. 21'; V o

Fig. 23 is a plan view of one of the two spools" and its supporting means'provided for each section of the machine, upon which toaccumulate 2 the said additional or warp threads of'discontinuedneedlewales;

Fig. 24 it aside elevation of the means shown m Fig. 25 is a somewhat tic representation of a stocking blank as it comes from the knitting needles, said figure representing the knitting as having progressed into the top of the foot, the stocking blank therefore still being upon the legger; 7

Fig.25isasimilarviewbutrepresentingthe stocking blank as now upon' the footer:

respectively indicated in Figs. 26 and 27;

Fig. 30 is a diagrammatic plan view of some of the needles of one section of the machine and indicating the relative positions of the main knitting thread guide or carrier and several of the additional or warp thread fingers in the act of laying their additional or warp threads onto the appropriate needles;

Figs. 31 and 32 are respectively a plan view and a side elevation of the means for automatically varying the traverse of the main thread carrier in accordance with the narrowings or fashionings at the selvage edges and upon the termination of the heel tabs, etc.

Fig. 33 is a plan view of sufiicient of one section of the machine to show the means to take care of the warp threads of disconnected needle wales,

541,245, filed June 1, 1931, I disclosed a full fashioned stocking, the fabric whereof is constructed in accordance with my invention, and one form or embodiment of means for making said stocking. Herein I have disclosed the same means and in addition I have represented in detail the application of my invention to the well known Reading machine to which or to any other suitable type of full fashioned knitting machine my invention may be applied.

The full fashioned hosiery to which my invention relates is run-proof or very strongly rimresistant in both directions throughout the entire extent of the hosiery.

The machine to which my invention is applied is a full fashioned hosiery machine of any desired type, and in, Figs. 8 to 30'I-have represented the same as applied to the well known Reading full fashioned machine. My invention is not limited in its application to use on any particular type of full fashioned machine.

The machine is in practice provided with the usual number of sections upon each of which is knitted a stocking leg and the heel tabs and the instep of the foot so as to make an English type of foot, but my invention is not restricted in this.

respect. In Fig. 5 wherein there is a somewhat 1 tic representation of parts of a full fashioned lmitting machine as well as in Figs. 8 to 30 wherein the invention is represented as ap plied to a Reading type of machine, I haye shown only a single section of the machine, but it is to be understood that each section of the Reading or other type of machine, has my invention applied thereto.

Any suitable hosiery yarn or thread may be employed as the main knitting yarn or thread as, for example, silk, artificial siik, rayon, cotton or wool, and I shall use the words main thread broadly to include any such types of thread or others that may be suitable. The main thread may be changed from time to time in knitting the stocking as may be necessary, as, for example,

at the end of the welt and in the foot. It will be understood that reinforcing threads may be introduced at desired points, in accordance with practice, particularly in the high splice and in the heel tabs, as well as in the sole and at the toe.

The additional, secondary or warp threads may also be of any suitable material, but they are preferably of silk, and as an important purpose of my invention is to provide a run-stop or strongly run-resistant stocking the stitches whereof so far as the main thread is concerned, are of usual character, I preferably in each instance use additional threads which are of the same character as the main thread, thus giving a uniform structure and appearance to the resulting hosiery, and one which .will not be objected to by those who prefer hosiery having the normal or usual stitch so far as the main thread is concerned.

. It will be evident that inasmuch as both the main lmitting threads and all the warp or additional threads are of the same character (as for example, real silk), the necessary or inevitable slight differences in thickness of the main knitting thread at different parts of its length, due to any cause, will be overcome or neutralized, or very greatly minimized, by reason of the presence of the said warp or additional threads in the respective needle wales of the main thread, inasmuch as the same inevitable inequalities would be present in the said warp and additional threads, and therefore the general effect will be more or less an equalization or distribution of the said inequalities so as tomake them substantially non-observable.

Referring first to. that form of mechanism shown in Figs. 5, 6 and 7, the framing of the machine is indicated generally at 1, the same having uprights and cross members 2. In the same is suitably mounted the cam shaft 3 driven in any suitable manner and whereon are mounted cams to impart both an-axial movement and a rocking movement to a shaft 4 suitably mounted in the upper part of the framing in parallelism with the cam shaft 3. Said axially movable or sliding shaft 4 has suitably secured thereto and depending therefrom all the guide bars 5 for the warp or additional thread fingers, but only one of said guide bars is shown, and that is merely diagrammatically indicated. The shafts 3 and 4 are broken away so that only a small part of the entire machine is shown. The purpose of imparting both an axial or sliding movement and a rocking movement to the shaft 4 is to impart the desired movements to the series of thread guides or fingers 6 for the additional or secondary threads, one such thread guide or finger being provided for each and every needle wale of the stocking blank, so that by reason of the incorporation of the said additional or secondary threads, the stocking is rendered very strongly run-resistant. or run-proof in both directions.

It will be understood that I preferably do not transfer stitches inward at the selvages to fashion the fabric at the usual points, in the usual manner, but because of the making of a run-proof fabric as I am enabled to make the desired fashioning or shaping of the fabr;c by automatically varying the traverse of the main thread guide orcarrier. and I at the same time render inactive move out of,functioning position the guides for the add.tional threads at the selvages. -Such-means .is not shown in that form or adaptation of my invention represented in Figs.5,6and7,butisshowninthosefigures of the drawings which disclose the application of my invention to a Reading machine. It may be stated at this point, however, that the warp guides or fingers so moved out of functioning position at predetermined times are in total number equal to the number of needle wales at the two selvages at the fabric blank which are, during the knitting of the stocking, terminated by automatically shortening the traverse of the main thread guide or carrier.

Referring further to that form of my invention shown in Figs. 5, 6 and 'l, the movements imparted to the guide bar 5 (namely, the longitudinal movement and the rocking movement) give to each thread guide or finger 6 a four way or substantially rectangular movement which is more fully indicated in Fig. 30. The construction is such that'each thread guide or finger 6 enters between two next adjacent needles, preferably from the rear to the front, is then moved lengthwise of the machine a distance of one needle, is then swung rearwardlyso that each such thread guide or finger 6 passes between the next two needles and is then moved longitudinally in the opposite direction, thereby completing a square or rectangle (see Fig. 30).

While my invention is not in all aspects limited to such a movement of the yarn guides or fingers I preferably restricteach individual warp thread to its own needle wale as this renders the fabric of greater lateral elasticity than a fabric wherein warp threads individually extend into two or more needle wales. g

The additional or warp threads are wound upon a suitable warp beam or beams or may be individually supplied from separate bobbins, but I have not attempted to show any such means in Figs.5,6and7.

It is highly important that the same tension be maintained upon all the additional or warp threads as upon the main knitting thread, and

I will in that form of my invention shown in Figs.

8 to 30 disclose means for so doing. In this manner I am enabled to secure a fabric which is of uniform, even and equal tension throughout at both the main knittingthread and the said additional threads.

The-needles are desirably spring beard needles and in Fig. 5 are represented at 7 as mounted in a needle bar 8 which is indicated only diagrammatically and which is of any suitable construction. I have not in Figs. 5, 6 and? indicated the sinkers, dividers and knocking over bits, nor have I indicated the movements of the knitting needles, but it will be understood that such mechanism functions as in thattype .of full fashioned hosiery machine to which my invention is applied, whether it be a Reading hosiery knitting machine, as set forth in Figs. 8 to 30. a Schubert 3:

Salzer, a Richter, or a Lieberknecht, or other type.

I have in Figs. 5, 6 and 7 more particularly represented means for imparting the described axial and rocking movements to the shaft 4, but it will be understood that any other suitable means may be employed for the purpose. The said shaft 4 is mounted for axial or sliding movement in the bearings 9, 10 of the framing, and is there secured by a collar 11 between which and the bearing 20 is a suitable coiled spring 12 tending to slide the shaft 4 to the left viewing Fig. 5. At the opposite end of said. shaft 4 is secured a roll 13 which takes against a slide 14 having a cam surface 15. The said slide 14 is mounted for vertical sliding movement only, in the bearing 16 provided in a guide bracket 17 secured to one of the uprights upon the framing. Said slide 14 at its lower end is pivotally secured at 18 to a lever 19 pivoted at 20 upon the framing and having at its opposite end a cam roll .21, and the said cam roll is held constantly in engagement by means of a spring 22 shown in Fig. 5, with a cam 23 fast upon and rotating with the cam shaft 3. The contour of the cam 23 is such as to impart the necessary sliding or axial movements to the shaft 4,

so that the additional warp threads will be suitthereto a rod or link 25 which ismounted for up and down or sliding movement in a bearing 26 upon a guide bracket 27 secured as shown in Fig. 7 to the frame of the machine. The said rod or link 25 has connected thereto a collar 28 to which is connected one end of a coiled spring 29, the other end being secured to the framing of the machine. To the lower'end of the rod or link I 25 there is pivotally secured at 30 a lever 31, itself pivotally secured at 32 to the framing and having at its other end a roll 33 bearing against the periphery of the 'cam 34 fast upon the cam shaft 3. The roll 33 is held constantly in engagement with the said cam 34 by the spring 29, and the contour of said cam 34 is such as to impart the necessary rocking movements to the shaft 4, so as to insure the laying oftheadditional threads in the needles, as already described.

Before proceeding to decribe that embodiment of my invention represented in Figs. 8 to 30, I

will refer to the fabric which isconstructed in, accordance with my invention and first make ref erence to Figs. 1 to 4 inclusive.

In Figs. 1 and 2, the top welt of the full fashioned stocking is represented at 35, and it will be understood that the additional or warp threads, indicated at 36 in Figs. 1, 3 and 4, may be introduced into the fabric from the very commencement thereof (that is, at the very commencement of the' welt) or the welt may be made in the usual manner and turned or closed, and thereupon a lighter knitting thread may be substituted, at the saine time the additional or warp threads 36 may be introduced and their feeding continued throughout detail. 4 j J In Figs. 1 and 2, the leg of the stocking is represented at 37, and referring to Fig. 1, it will be observed that the fabric is narrowed during the knitting of the leg or portion, this being desirably done (as shownpin this embodiment of my invention but to which my invention is not limited) by, automatically moving out of the fabric as will be described in knitting position two next adjacentgthread guides v or fingers at each edge of the fabric at every place where a narrowing or fashioning is to be effected. It is to be understood that thosewarp threads 36 pertaining to the needle wales discontinued at the narrowings, are taken care of in such awaythat they do not-become entangled in the mechanism during the further operation. In Fig. 1, I have represented the warp threads 36 of the said discontinued needle wales as dependflgures of the drawing, I have represented one ing at each side or edge of the fabric. In other form of means for automatically taking care of said warp threads of discontinued needle wales.

It will be understood that the traverse of the main thread guide or carrier is automatically varied to correspond to and in accordance with the said narrowings as will be described hereinafter. It will be understood that the warp threads 36 or discontinued needle wales will be subsequently trimmed away.

It will also be understood that the stocking blank will be seamed along the selvage edges and also at usual points for an English type of foot as will be further described, but to which type of foot my invention is not restricted.

Referring to Figs. 1 and 2, as well as to Figs. 25, 26, 27, and also Figs. 28, 29, which diagrammatically indicate the knitting elements, the instep or top of the foot portion of the stocking is represented at 38, and it will be understood that my invention is of peculiar advantage with the so-called English type of foot because the additional threads 36 continue without interruption from the top of the stocking down the leg and instep to the toe 39. The heel tabs are indicated at 4040, and at their inner edges are separated from the instep fabric-as indicated most clearly at 4l-41 in Figs. 1 and 25. The high splice portions are indicated at 42-42, and are provided by the usual additional traversing thread carriers for the reinforcing threads, arid the movements of such additional thread carriers are controlled in usual manner. The sole portions of the stocln'ng blank or foot are indicated at 43-43, and the toe portion 39 is provided with the customary narrows 44.

It will be imderstood that the stocking rep:- resented in Figs. 1, 2 and 25 to 29 is seamed along.

both sides of the foot as indicated at 47 in Fig. 2 and also along the bottom of the foot as indicated at 48 in said figure.

In order that the method of knitting the foot and adjacent parts may be entirely clear, I have, in Fig. 25, indicated the stocking blank as suspended from or coming from the needles 7. In Fig. 25, the knitting upon the legger has progressed to a point at or aproximately at the end of the instep, the fabric being upon the needles and above the knocking-over bits in the usual knitting position. The heel tabs 4040 have been completed and are no longer upon the needles. The fabric is now transferred from the legger to the footer.

The position of the fabric shown in Fig. 26 is that represented in Fig. 28. The instep portion 38 is represented in Fig. 28 and is still upon the needles but below the knocking-over bits 47. To position the instep portion 38 below the knocking-over bits 47, the needle bar 50 is swung away from the knocking-over bits momentarily. The heel tabs 40' are turned outwardly as represented in Fig. 26 and are positioned in customary manner uponthe needles and thereupon the sides 43 of the foot'are knitted, such fabric being diagrammatically indicated in Fig. 28 as upon the needles 7 above the knocking-over bits. The instep portion 38 is then raised above the knocking over bitsand the knitting continues upon the footer to complete the sides 43 and the toe 39.

It will be understood that the warp threads 36 may and preferably do continue throughout the heel tabs 40.

Having thus described one (but diagrammatic) form of means for making the stocking of my invention, and having described such stocking, I will now describe the application of the mech- In Figs. 8 to 24 and in Fig. 30 I have represented one end portion only of such Reading type of machine, and that merely sufliciently to show the application of my invention to one section thereof, but it is to be understood that all the sections of the machine, whether it be a legger or a footer, are provided with the means for properly introducing the warp threads each into one needle wale of the fabric.

Referring first to Figs. 9 and 10, which are respectively a front and an end elevation of the right hand end of a Reading type of machine, a horizontabporflon of the framing is represented at 51. Upstanding therefrom and suitably bolted thereto at each end of the machine frame, there is a bracket 52 and at the inner or lefthand end of the first section of the machine, there is an upright 53 similarly bolted to the frame 51. A bracket such as 53 is provided at each section of the machine. To the upper end of the bracket 52, which is provided at each end of the mach'ne, there is bolted an upright bracket 54. To the upper end of each bracket 53 throughout the machine, there is bolted a duplex bracket as indicated at 5555 in Fig. 8. It will be understood that one part of the duplex bracket 55 and the bracket 54 shown in Fig. 8 are secured together by a tie rod 56 and that a similar tie rod is provided for each section of the machine, and in the intermediate sections of the machine such tie rods secure together members of adjacent duplex brackets 55. A shaft 57 is pro- .vided which desirably extends the entire length of the machine, it being indicated at the right of the bracket 54 and between the two parts of the duplex bracket 55. In this embodiment of 1 5 my invention, but to which my invention is not limited, I provide a single drumor rotary member for all of the warp threads of that stocking blank. Such a drum is indicated in Figs. 8 and 10 at 58. The said drum as well as all such drums are fast upon the shaft 57 as by means of a set screw 59 and suitable tension is imparted or applied to the shaft 57 by a weight 60 secured to theend of a cord 61 passing about a drum or enlargement 62 upon the shaft 57, the cord 61 having its, end secured to a pin or screw 63 as shown also in Fig. .10; This construction is repeated at both ends of the machine.

All of the warp threads 36 pass from the drum 58 under a small rod 64 shown in Hg. 10 as resting upon said warps and drawn lightly downward by one or more coil springs 65 connected to a part 66 of the framing. Desirably also the said warp threads 36 pass over and partly about a small roll 67 which lies loosely in a loop or strap 68, the ends of which are connected to a coiled spring 69, itself connected at its opposite end to a screw or member 70 in the framing 66. The rod 67- lies upon the upper edge of the bracket member 66, so as to move to and fro thereon.

By the described means the tension is 'properly maintained upon all of the warp threads and each of said tensions may be adjusted, and in practice I do from time to time adjust or vary said tension soas to keep the tension upon all of the warp threads the same as the tension upon the main knitting thread. The tension upon the main knitting thread may be and preferably is provided in the usual manner as, for; example, as represented in Fig. 11 where is"shown a rod 71 upon which is rockably mounted a thread carrying or guiding arm '12 having two thread eyes '73, 74, through which pass the main knitting thread' '75. A light plate spring '16 is secured to the part 77 of the member 72 and rests upon the rod 78 of the machine, and in operation the member 72 is rocked to tension the threads 75 against the plate spring '16. Any other suitable means may be provided to tension the main thread and I keep, as described, the tension upon all the warp threads uniform with the tension upon the main knitting thread, so that the fabric is of uniform-tension throughout. Desirably the main knitting thread and all warp threads are of the same color and otherwise of the same or very similar characteristics, so that the knitted fabric is of uniform character throughout.

The individual warp threads 36 extend through respective openings '19 in a plate 80 shown upon a.larger'scale in Fig. 19, and the sad threads extend thence in ,a suitably guided manner through the individual thread'guides or fingers 81 shown in the several views but upon a large scale in Figs. 18 and 18. The warps may be threaded through said fingers either from the right or from the left as desired.

' The guide or carrier for the main knitting thread 15 is represented at 82 in Fig. 18 and elsewhere and is of a usual construction and may be traversed to and fro in a manner usual in a: Reading full fashioned knitting machine excepting that I provide means for automatically varying the length of the traverse in accordance with the width of the fabric or blank and ac-' cordingly automatically shorten said traverse to correspond with the narrowings, particularly at the calf portion or ankle portion of the leg. I am enabled to-do this, and need notfashion the fabric by transferring stitches inward at the two selvage edges as customarily done, because the fabric is of a nonrun character "throughout,

and it is therefore possible to discontinue needle wales wherever desired without tendency of the fabric to run at those points where needle wales are discontinued.

In Fig. 18 a sinker is represented at 83 and a V knocking over 'bit at 4'1, and the relation of theknitting elements is in said figure indicated, and in Fig. 30 I have diagrammatically indicated the traverse of the main thread carrier 82 along the bank of needles 7. I have also indicated certain of the warp thread fingers 81 in said Fig. 30 and the rectangular movement of the warp thread fingers each about its own needle. It will be understood-that the traverse of the main thread carrier 82 across the bank of needles starts substantially simultaneously with the commencement of the thread laying operation of the warp threads 38. It will also be understood that each warp thread is laid once about its needle for each course of the main knitting thread. whether that course starts from the right or from the left end of the bank of needles. The knitting needles commence their descent immediately after each course of the main knitting threadis laid. Each warp thread may-be wrapped about its needle in the direction indicated-by the arrow heads in Fig. :or in the opposite direction. For convenience I prefer to thread the warp threads through the fingers 81 from'the right. While the said warp threads are being wrapped about the iiieedles 7, said needles are at their highest posi- I have stated that the traverse of the main knitting thread carrier is varied or shortened at hereinafter more fully refer to means for vary- .ing the traverse of said main knitting thread carrier 82, which carrieris mounted desirably in the customary manner.

. Such parts of the Reading machine as are not particularly described maybe and preferably are of usual construction and being well known need not be more particularly referred to.

I will next describe the means for mounting the warp thread fingers 81 in such manner that each finger passes rectangularly about its knittin needle and also I will describe means whereby certain of the warp thread fingers-are automatically thrown out of action to narrow or fashion the fabric.

In Figs. 8, 9, 15 and 16 and elsewhere there is represented a rod 84 which extends either the entire length of the machine or one half the length thereof, being duplicated for the other half of the machine. Said rod'is mounted in suitable brackets one of which is indicated at 85 in Figs. 9 and 10, and at one end said rod is provided with an adjustable bolt 86 against which takes the inclined end 87 of a head or enlargement 88 upon an upright spindle-or shaft 89 mounted for axial movement in a bearing or support 90 and moved in a manner to be presently described. Upon the said rod are fast hubs or like members 91, a pair being provided for the warp thread fingers of each section of the machine or bank of needles. To said hubs or members 91 are suitably connected the warp fingers 81 and preferably in the manner indicated more in detail in Figs. 16 and 18. Each hub 91 is desirably of a divided formavided a series of hubs or collars 93, each of which 2 has depending therefrom or suitably secured thereto two warp fingers 81 which therefore are rigid or fixed with respect to each other. There are thus provided a relatively large number, such as 20 or more warp finger carriers or holders 94 at each side of the fabric blank and sufficient in number to provide for all the narrowings in the calf or ankle portion of the stocking blank and for discontinuing-wales at the ends of the heel tabs. It will be understood that in an automatic manner one of said carriers or holders 94 at each selvage edge is thrownout of action-at the same time at a narrowing point and that this automatic throwing out of action of one warp thread finger, carrier or holder is continued progressively inward until the narrowings are completed.

Those warp threadfingers that remain in ac-' as to tend to hold the warp thread fingers 81, at

the selvage portions, against the back plate 92, but in such manner as to permit the rocking movement indicated in Fig. 18, wherein one of the warp thread fingers 81 is represented as in a non-functioning position sufficiently toward the front of the machine to prevent the warp thread 36 therefor from being taken by its needle.

While those carriers or holders 94 for the warp thread fingers that are thrown out of action may be acted upon in any suitable manner to render them progressively inactive, I preferably use for this purpose a movement of the machine which is not employed for the purpose of transferring stitches inward, since in the disclosed embodiment of my invention I do not transfer stitches inward, as already explained by me.

While therefore the narrowing points may be and desirably are omitted, I employ the narrowing bars (two in number) for the purpose of causing them successively to throw out of action the warp yarn finger holders 94 one after another progressively inward from the outer edges of the section or bank of needles.

For this purpose, I have represented the rod 97 in Fig. 16 upon which is supported the downwardly extending member 98 to support the two bars 99 and 100 which are moved step-by-step in the manner customary with the Reading machine.

It will be understood that the said bars 99, 100 extend the entire length of the machine and that at each section of the machine the bar 100 is provided with a member that moves toward the left so as to engage one after another the holders 94 and that the bar 99 is provided at each section of the machine with alike member but oppositely constructed and oppositely moved, so that in the step-by-step movement thereof toward the right viewing Fig. 15 the holders 94 are one after another moved into non-functioning position.

It will be understood that the said bars 99 and 100 are respectively moved in opposite directions, and in Figs. 12 and 13 I have shown in part the means for giving such opposite movements to the said bar. The members provided respectively upon the bars 99 and 100 are plates 101 shown in Fig. 15, and 102 shown in Fig. 13. Each of said plates is provided with an inclined lower corner portion 103, 104 which, in the opposite inward movements of the bars 99, 100, ride as shown in Fig. 16 upon ears or projections 105 extending substantially horizontally laterally from the holders 94. In the inward movements of said plates 101, 102, the respective pairs of warp threads fingers 81 are thrown into the dotted line position shown in Fig. 18, so that the warp threads are held temporarily in a position where they cannot be taken by the corresponding needles.

I have referred to the rod 84 as axially moved and it is to be understood that said rod is at the same time rocked sufficiently so that the combined movements provide for the wrapping by each warp yarn finger 81 about its corresponding needle 7 in the rectangular manner already referred to. I have in part described means for imparting the axial movement to the rod 84, as consisting of the vertical spindle or shaft 89 of Fig. 9. The shaft 84 is provided with a suitable spring coiled thereabout to return ,the sameafter its axial movement, said spring not beingshown in Fig. 8 or Fig. 15, because concealed in front thereof. In Figs. 8 and 10 I have more completely shown the means for imparting both the axial and the rocking movement to the rod 84. As therein indicated the shaft 89 at its lower end has pivoted thereto a link 105 at 106. Said link at its lower end is slotted at 107 and is pivotally connected at 108 to a lever 109 itself pivotally connected at 110 upon the framing.

Said lever 109 carries a roll 111 which rides on a cam 112 fast upon the main cam shaft 113 of the machine. The said cam 112 is provided with a projection 114 which takes under the roll 111 and through the described connections lift the shaft 89 so as to impart an axial movement to the rod 84 of sufficient extent to correspond with the distance between two next adjacent needles. In order to impart the said rocking movement to the rod 84, it is, as shown in Fig. 10, provided with an arm 115, which may be removably connected by a pin 116 to an upright link or bar 117, pivoted to a lever 117' mounted on a bracket 117", suitably mounted on the framing as indicated in Fig. 10 and carrying at its lower end a roll 118 resting upon a cam 119 also upon the main cam shaft 113. The said cam 119 is provided with a concavity 120 of such extent, shape and position that during the rotation of said cam shaft the rod 84 is rocked sufiiciently to move the warp thread fingers 81 from front to back and back to front between adjacent needles.

In Fig. 10, I have\represented at 121 one of the arms mounted upon a transversely extending shaft 122 and supporting for lengthwise sliding movement the said bars 99, 100. I have also in said figure indicated the path of the main knitting thread 75to the carrier therefor. It will be observed that the said thread passes through suitable guides, tensions and. take-up indicated generally at 123 and which need not be more fully described.

I preferably provide means whereby the warp threads of the discontinued needle wales at the narrowings or fashionings are taken care of, so that they will not interfere with or become entangled with the mechanism. For this purpose I have represented one form of means in Figs. 19 to 24, and in Fig. 33, but to which my invention is in no wise limited.

In said figures, I have represented the warp threads 36 as coming from the spool or drum provided therefor. At a suitable point adjacent to each selvage portion of each bank of needles I have provided means whereon may be accumulated the warp thread ends of the temporarily discontinued needle wales at the selvages. For this purpose I have in Figs. 20 to 24 and in Fig.

33 represented ,a portion of the frame at 51.

Secured thereto is a bracket 125 supporting for rotative movement a shaft 126 which extends desirably the entire length of the machine and which is at some suitable point or points lengthwise the machine provided with means to rotate the same in a slow step-by-step manner. For this purpose I have represented the main shaft 113 as provided with an eccentric 128 to which is connected 3. link 129 pivotally connected to and operating an arm or lever 130 loose upon the 1 Fast upon the shaft 126 is a said shaft 126. ratchet 131, the teeth whereof are engaged by a pawl 132, beneath which is a suitable shield 133 moved by a handle 133' and held in position by a pin 133" to keep the pawl 132 out of the teeth 

